This page offers advice on buying and raising a puppy for you and your family, puppy training, socialisation and basic training tips. See FAQ's for more breed info.

All our adult dogs living with us at home are regularly heart tested for DCM (Dilated Cardiomyopathy) by Liverpool University - Small Animal Veterinary division. DCM is the 3rd biggest killer of Dobermanns in this country behind old age and cancer. DCM is a progressive disease and dogs should be checked annually. For further information on health click HERE.

Whilst no breeder can ever guarantee the future health of a puppy, breeders can and should undertake all necessary health tests on their dogs and bitches to ensure they are not breeding from unhealthy animals with avoidable inherited diseases. We pride ourselves on the health of our dogs whilst considering the overall gene pool. We will also never compromise on character unlike some who breed purely on looks for the showring.

Raised with love and respect, our puppies are able to develop into confident, happy dogs. They are never left unattended and benefit from early socialisation with friends and their children. Our puppies are character tested under the 'Volhard' scheme, to identify their suitability for new owners in providing a puppy appropriate to their personal lifestyle and requirements ~click HERE for more information on Volhard. We are very careful with whom we home our puppies. First and foremost, they are companions whether they are also to be worked or shown. Unless prospective buyers have had a Dobermann or other working breed previously, we may suggest a female may be better for them to 'learn on'. The breed may not always be suitable for first time dog owners, who through lack of experience may not understand some of the behaviour that a challenging young Dobermann can present. Because Dobermanns are highly intelligent and demanding, new owners may sometimes think a dog is trying to be 'dominant', and a few may resort to 'coming down hard on the dog' in the misguided belief that the dog will then respect them for it. As in all cases, respect must be earned through leadership, and persuading the dog around to the owners way of thinking is more rewarding than having to physically discipline the dog. As any experienced owner will tell you, Dobermanns are a very sensitive breed, and will not achieve their best if roughly handled or stressed. There are some who advise anyone with a problem dog to assert their dominance by 'taking it around the back and giving it a whacking'. Times have moved on from when we sent children up chimneys. There are far better ways to deal with problems than by ignorant people who advise you to physically or mentally punish your dog, which only escalates an already stressful situation. Click HERE for our training page.

PROBLEMS & SUPPORT

If you are having problems with your dog and need training, Jay is a qualified BIPDT and KC Accredited trainer. Dobermanns require mental and physical exercise; they are not a 'Sunday afternoon walk in the park dog'. They require their owners to be of a steady nature (mentally) and to be experienced handlers. Due to the need of the Dobermann to be part of your 'pack' they are not a breed suited to solitary confinement. For that reason we do not sell to people who are out at work all day or who intend to keep their dogs in a kennel. This breed is not suited to environments where they are not treated as a member of the family. Like all dogs, they need rules to work to. That doesn't mean they won't try to step outside the rules, Dobermanns will push and test you if they feel you may not be a worthy leader, especially the males during adolescence when they can be quite hard work, but if you gain their respect with calm authority, you will be rewarded with absolute devotion and loyalty. If you try to dominate, suppress and bully the dog into submission, you will cause more problems than you had before by introducing conflict and fight.

PUPPY PACK

We are available before and after you buy your puppy. Our after sales support is second to none as we always sell our puppies with the clear understanding that your dogs' health and welfare remains our paramount responsibility even if they are no longer in our home. If and when necessary, we will travel to help you with any problems or training requirements you may have. If we are unavailable when needed for help, we will ask someone to take our place.

Our puppy pack includes: Comprehensive guide to caring for your Dobermann puppy's mental and physical welfare (see download on main page). Training guide ~ including basic guide to control and encouragement of your puppy. Behaviour guide including basic problem solving ~ separation anxiety, disobedience etc. Health guide ~ worming, teeth, ears, eyes, coat and skin care, nail care etc. Exercise guide.

Pedigree history, breeding background and KC Registration documents (exc your transfer fee of £12.00). Sack of food and detailed feeding guide including information on tranferring to natural feeding. 'Comfort blanket'. Vetmedic brochure ~ veterinary suppliers at lower prices than retail. Puppy nail clipers. Guide to house training (we start house training around 4-5 weeks). Tattoo registration documents (all our puppies are tattooed; NDTR reg transfer costs £20.00). Guide to working your Dobermann whatever your requirements - Basic/advanced obedience/Tracking/Working trials/Obedience/Schutzhund/agility etc. Show training or handling at shows/ Training assistance here is free for Aritaur puppies. Health certification (we do not and will not produce VWd affected dogs). Purchase contract. References available if required. 6 weeks free insurance. Unlimited support and re-homing assistance if ever required for the lifetime of your dog. £10.00 per puppy donation to Dobermann Rescue/Rehoming Association ~ contact Chris Omar ~ 01276 855326.

If you are interested in owning an Aritaur Dobermann please mail or call us.

BASIC TRAINING TIPS

With all training, do not allow yourself or your dog to become stressed. No creature can concentrate when stressed, so if something isn't working out, just stop and start again or panic and confusion will set in. Keep your voice steady - with puppies do not use 'disciplinary tones'. If you shout or snap commands, it sounds like you are barking, so keep your voice mellow. You may find silent or clicker training useful if your voice is sharp. Carry out each exercise no more than three times. Any more and it becomes too repetitive. Try to finish each task with a 'win', ie if puppy has succeeded after try two, finish the exercise on a win, and leave it for another day. Go back to basics when training your pup in whichever task it is. However old they are, they don't always understand what your command is - that is not their fault, it's yours for not giving it properly. Just remember, there is always a reason for every action, it's up to you to find out what it is. IMPORTANT remember - when your puppy does the right thing, praise it! Otherwise how do they know that they've done a good job? The words most puppies hear is 'NO, naughty puppy, NO'! Try giving the puppy an opportunity to do something right so they can receive praise. That will change the dynamic in their relationship with you and they will want to start to try and find ways to please you. The difference in them is amazing.

HOUSE TRAINING TIPS

Choosing a breeder who starts toilet training early is a useful start, but your puppy now needs to realise that they can't relieve themselves whenever or wherever they like.

When she relieves herself in the house and is caught in the act, you may tell her off immediately, but although she knows she has done something wrong, she doesn't understand what it is, or what to do about it. If she's urinated in the house and you haven't seen her doing it, don't bother reprimanding her, it will be pointless and she'll only get worried and anxious because again she's done something, but doesn't know what. You therefore need to return to basics.

1. Bladder control. She has never had to hold herself, so initially these decisions need to be made for her. She must be taken outside on the hour, every hour without fail. It is critical you don't forget, set an alarm if necessary, for any mistakes at this stage are your fault and will undo all your work. After a while with no accidents (no sooner than a week), you can start to lengthen this time to an hour and 5 minutes, 1 hour and 10 minutes then 15 minutes and so on. Don't push your luck, again at this stage a mistake is a real setback.

2. Command. (Word association). Every time she urinates, give her a command word. This could be anything - "do your business", "have a pee", whatever, but nothing you usually say to her, and continue this while she is urinating, repeat continually in a happy voice with lots of praise. You may sound like an idiot, especially if you're shouting happily your command across the other side of the field, but she'll very quickly learn what to do. It is important to repeat it over and over repeatedly in the same tone, whilst she is weeing. The words need to be virtually drummed into her.

If you can get her to wee in a particular place, then so much the better - again it's association that is important, however, be aware that bitches in particular who lack confidence, may show reluctance to urinate anywhere else even when away from home and it can be dangerous for them to hold out for a long time.

3. Restriction. Often puppies who are raised in a particular area of the house, urinate in that place if they can't get outside. Our dogs always return to the dining room, because that was where their puppy pen was, and access to outside was via the French windows next to it. You must therefore remove that option from her. If she has to be allowed to roam around places she has previously urinated in, then clean that area with washing liquid ie Persil as it contains no trace of ammonia to attract her to the patch and covers any existing scent.

Praise is the way to train dogs, not punishment. Never, ever rub the puppy's nose in his urine or excrement. Anyone who does that is not fit to own a dog, because a) it's disgustingly cruel and b) it is their fault for not knowing how to train a dog properly!

SOCIALISATION - Introduce your puppy to as much as possible before 12 weeks of age. If your pup sees something new to her after 12 weeks, she is far less likely to be able to accept it and may show fear avoidance. It is important not to fuss or reassure your pup if they show concern. Just sit next to them, let them watch it for a brief period, then distract them by walking on and give them a treat when they respond to you.

Aritaur dogs are vaccinated using either Procyon or Duramine vaccines, starting at 7 weeks and finishing at 10 to allow for early socialisation. These products are also the only two which cover Parvo Type 11, Coronavirus and are 3 year protocols hence avoiding repeated annual vaccination.

SEPARATION ANXIETY TRAINING

Many dogs, especially those who live without another dog, become so attached to their owners, that when the owner leaves the house (or in some cases the room), the dog becomes desperately worried. He feels alone and panicky, and these feelings most often manifest themselves in destructive behaviour and/or barking.

The basic treatment for these behaviours is the same, and it will not be a miracle cure overnight. Expect to be working on this for a month or more depending on the severity of the separation anxiety.

Step 1. From an early age when your new puppy comes home, do not let him follow you around the house or around the room. He must learn independence, and must also realise that you will always return to him sooner or later. If he follows you around the house, shut the door to stop him following you and open it a second later before he's begun to register he's separated from you.

Teaching your dog to stay, is the most useful of exercises to start with. This exercise is NOT recall, it is to return to the dog. Start in the garden as a game, tell him to sit or down with a definite command. Walk away from him, wait for a few moments then return. If the dog creeps after you whilst you are walking away, return to him, say 'go back' and take him back to where you left him. This is important, you mustn't let him lie down anywhere but where you asked him to stay. When he is confident and staying where you tell him to, start to increase the time until you can leave him for a good 5-10 minutes. During this time you should let him see you moving around and when you and he are really practiced, even going out of sight.

Use this exercise in the house by telling him to wait in his basket. This teaches him not to follow you from room to room. Eventually, (don't push it too fast), you should go out of the house. Return after 1 minute, then 5 the next day and so on. Remember on your return to give small praise.

Step 2. Make no touch, talk or eye contact when you leave the dog on his own, either leaving or on your return. He will be ecstatic that you've come back to him at last. Just say hello and carry on unpacking your shopping or making a cup of tea. This doesn't mean you have to ignore him completely, but you should ignore his constant demands for attention, no matter how imploring he is or what toys he is bringing to you. Whatever you do, don't go into "poor baby, Mummy's back now" routine.

Step 3. Many people advise giving the dog a huge treat when you are leaving him, such as a big bone or buster ball filled with treats to keep him occupied and happy. However, if the only time he gets this is when you are leaving him to go out of the house, you are simply re-enforcing the issue of leaving the house, which is a big step. Therefore, if you feel he needs something to do whilst you aren't with him, give him the special treat whilst you go into other parts of the house. This is his reward for being alone. You must of course remove it when you return, because otherwise it loses it's special meaning.

Step 4. Try and reduce the dog's general dependency on you. When he comes up for fuss, ignore him. A few minutes later, call him to you for fuss. This is used to establish hierarchy in dominant dogs, however, it is also useful for demanding dogs, which in a sense is dominant - you must stop being your dog's personal slave!

Never return, talk or look at your dog when he is barking, even to just say no. Any attention is attention of some sort and therefore a reward in his eyes. Ignoring a dog is bad enough for them. Praise him calmly for being good and quiet.

Crates or cages are invaluable with a young puppy. It offers them a place of sanctuary and safety and importantly saves furniture, shoes and walls from being destroyed whilst you need to go out. However, training your puppy to go in a cage must be done carefully, otherwise puppy will think he is being punished or trapped whereby panic will set in.

When puppy falls asleep, pick him up gently and lay him in the crate with the door pushed to. When he wakes up, don't take so long that he starts to cry, or you'll get involved with having to wait for him to stop before he can come out. He may need to relieve himself urgently, but if you return to the cage whilst he is crying, he will begin to think he can cry to get you to come, so don't delay.

During the day whilst you are at home, train him to go in the cage for a treat like a big bone that he can spend hours chewing on. When he goes in the crate, tell him what a good boy he is, but in a soothing steady voice, not an excited one.

When you leave him, just walk away as in the separation training. None of the "now be a good boy, Mummy won't be long chatter ". That will only reinforce any anxiety. Do not feed him through the bars of the cage. It will only escalate that he wants to get out. When you return, ignore him. Go past him (bouncing to get your attention), no talk, no touch, no eye contact - as Cesar Millan says, and make yourself a cuppa/open your mail/unload your shopping. When he's calm, THEN you pay attention to him. Don't wind him up again, just a calm, loving cuddle and praise him for being calm.

We will not sell to anyone whose dog would live in a crate or cage.

PUPPY BITING

This is probably the most common question we are asked 'how do I stop my puppy biting me/the children?'. It's often a difficult concept to get your head around, but puppies won't bite natural leaders - if they do, it's just once. Most of the time it is because puppy lacks direction, mental stimulation, and he is attention seeking. The remainder of the time it's because the children have been rolling around on the floor with pupy biting at their clothes/arms etc, and the puppy can't therefore be expected to learn that is not acceptable behaviour. Don't put the puppy in that poistion to make mistakes, then you won't have to correct it. One lady asked me recently 'how do I stop my dog jumping up atthe work surface?! This to me is quite odd, because if you don't want the dog to jump up, you push it off. If you have to have lessons in this sort of 'how to' situation, 100% you will not cope with a Dobe. There is no technical manual. You can learn skills, but you either have authority or don't.

All puppies bite, nip and chase with their teeth like mini land pirhanas, it's what puppies do. They are not being mean or 'vicious' and it will not last, so don't treat puppy as if he's been bad when he nips. You just need to teach him not to and that is not by smacking. The best way to treat a puppy if he has been over-rough when playing, is with a firm "NO BITING!" and with you walking away from the game. Puppies will nip when playing, and just as they have to with their litter~mates, they need to learn bite tolerance (ie what hurts). Nipping can be associated with teething (don't forget at 5-6 months to provide something to chew on, or it could be your shoes), and it is also of to see what they can get away with - or not! Mimicking litter mates with a loud cry and walking away from them, will usually get the message across and often diverting the puppy onto biting something fun like a raggy toy will make you far more popular and exciting to be with. Do remember puppies don't have TV or books, and they don't have their litter mates anymore, so if you aren't providing an interesting environment for your puppy, you'll get a bored puppy who is attention seeking.

Never ever smack a puppy or dog across the face or nose. You will end up with a head shy animal and it is the fastest way to create a snappy animal. If you tap puppy on the nose as some believe, the automatic retaliation is to bite back. Remember to emulate the way a bitch enforces her discipline on the puppies with a warning growl, eye contact and a quick snap if necessary; this behaviour should be imitated by you when correcting puppy's behaviour. Hold puppy gently around the scruff, just to stop them biting for no longer than a second, then release and long gentle strokes to calm him down. If he turns around to bite your hand, you are either holding too hard, or you have a very dominant puppy. Try first easing off a bit on the hold, but otherwise distract them with a loud noise and them immediately divert their attention onto something positive like a quick training session. Show them there is another way by giving them a chewy toy - usually flesh is much more yielding and toys don't yelp, but he will get the idea if you just fold your arms or walk away and ignore him. Remember, you would never let an adult male dog, chew or mouth your arm, so don't allow it as a youngster. Do not expect a puppy to understand that rolling on the floor with your children is okay but running after them biting their ankles is not.

Remember at all times that puppy needs a lot of mental stimulation - this breed is so intelligent, it's like leaving a 5 year old playing alone all day. Puppies don't have television to occupy them so you must do plenty of activities with them. First time owners into the breed frequently contact us to ask how they can cope with keeping puppy occupied because they are behaving really badly - they are bored. This phase will not last forever, but it can be hard work (especially when your favourite shoes are eaten). See the Books Link for ideas