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This
page offers advice on buying and raising a puppy for you and your
family, puppy training, socialisation and basic training tips. See
FAQ's for more breed info. |
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If
you would like to discuss booking a puppy with us, mail or call
us on 01538 703072. Our bookings begin a year in advance depending what mix of sexes and colours (brown and rust or black and rust) we have. We are happy
to give information and advice on the breed, but please do not call if you a) just want a guard
dog, b) are not seriously considering owning this breed or c) are shopping on price alone. Some general questions are answered in FAQ's. |
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All our adult dogs
living with us at home are regularly heart tested for DCM
(Dilated Cardiomyopathy) by Liverpool University
- Small Animal Veterinary division. DCM is the 3rd biggest killer
of Dobermanns in this country behind old age and cancer. DCM is a progressive disease and
dogs should be checked annually. For further information
on health click HERE.
Whilst no breeder
can ever guarantee the future health of a puppy, breeders can and
should undertake all necessary health tests on their dogs and bitches
to ensure they are not breeding from unhealthy animals with avoidable
inherited diseases. We pride ourselves on the health of our dogs
whilst considering the overall gene pool. We will also never compromise on character unlike
some who breed purely on looks for the showring.
Raised with love and respect,
our puppies are able to develop into confident, happy dogs. They
are never left unattended and benefit from early socialisation with
friends and their children. Our puppies are character tested under
the 'Volhard' scheme, to identify their suitability for new owners
in providing a puppy appropriate to their personal lifestyle and
requirements ~click HERE for more
information on Volhard. We are very careful with whom we home
our puppies. First and foremost, they are companions whether they
are also to be worked or shown. Unless prospective buyers have had
a Dobermann or other working breed previously, we may suggest
a female may be better for them to 'learn on'. The breed may not always be suitable for first time dog owners, who through lack
of experience may not understand some of the behaviour
that a challenging young Dobermann can present. Because Dobermanns
are highly intelligent and demanding, new owners may sometimes think a dog is trying to be 'dominant', and a few may resort to 'coming down hard on the dog' in
the misguided belief that the dog will then respect them for it.
As in all cases, respect must be earned through leadership, and persuading the dog
around to the owners way of thinking is more rewarding than
having to physically discipline the dog. As any experienced owner
will tell you, Dobermanns are a very sensitive breed, and will not
achieve their best if roughly handled or stressed. There are some
who advise anyone with a problem dog to assert their dominance by
'taking it around the back and giving it a whacking'. Times have
moved on from when we sent children up chimneys. There are far better
ways to deal with problems than by ignorant people who advise you
to physically or mentally punish your dog, which only escalates
an already stressful situation. Click HERE for our training page.
PROBLEMS &
SUPPORT If you are having
problems with your dog and need training, Jay is a qualified BIPDT and KC Accredited trainer. Dobermanns require mental
and physical exercise; they are not a 'Sunday afternoon walk in
the park dog'. They require their owners to be of a steady nature
(mentally) and to be experienced handlers. Due to the need of the
Dobermann to be part of your 'pack' they are not a breed suited
to solitary confinement. For that reason we do not sell to people
who are out at work all day or who intend to keep their dogs in
a kennel. This breed is not suited to environments where they are
not treated as a member of the family. Like all dogs, they need
rules to work to. That doesn't mean they won't try to step outside
the rules, Dobermanns will push and test you if they feel you may not be a worthy leader,
especially the males during adolescence when they can be quite hard
work, but if you gain their respect with calm authority, you will
be rewarded with absolute devotion and loyalty. If you try to dominate, suppress and bully the dog into submission, you will cause more problems than you had before
by introducing conflict and fight. |
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As part of our support to the puppies we breed, and those sired by our dogs, we hold puppy training days which are a lot of fun for owners and pups alike. We cover all the basic training requirements, how to handle any difficulties, and help owners to learn how to start tracking/working/obedience/showing training. All the days involve off lead socialisation for puppies and finish with a charge in the fields. We usually have a maximum of 10 pups per day or it becomes chaotic, and this was one of four training days this summer (08), on the 14th June. L-R Richard & Lisa with Riot (Nominator x Leia), Vince, Victoria & Lizzie with Jack (Nominator x Leia), Mike & Karen with their Jack, Lisa with Lexie (Nominator x Tikka), Mandy & Gary with Logan (Nominator x Leia), and Tracy with Flynn (Nominator x Hastra Kastra). |
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PUPPY PACK
We are available before and after you buy your
puppy. Our after sales support is second to none as we always sell
our puppies with the clear understanding that your dogs' health
and welfare remains our paramount responsibility even if they are
no longer in our home. If and when necessary, we will travel to help you with any problems or training requirements
you may have. If we are unavailable when needed for help, we will
ask someone to take our place.
Our puppy pack includes: Comprehensive
guide to caring for your Dobermann puppy's mental and physical welfare (see download on main page). Training guide ~ including basic guide to control
and encouragement of your puppy. Behaviour guide
including basic problem solving ~ separation anxiety, disobedience
etc. Health guide ~ worming, teeth, ears, eyes,
coat and skin care, nail care etc. Exercise guide.
Pedigree history, breeding background and KC Registration documents (exc your transfer fee of £12.00). Sack of food and detailed
feeding guide including information on tranferring to natural feeding. 'Comfort blanket'. Vetmedic
brochure ~ veterinary suppliers at lower prices than retail. Puppy nail clipers. Guide
to house training (we start house training around 4-5 weeks). Tattoo
registration documents (all our puppies are tattooed; NDTR reg transfer
costs £20.00). Guide to working
your Dobermann whatever your requirements - Basic/advanced obedience/Tracking/Working
trials/Obedience/Schutzhund/agility etc. Show training
or handling at shows/ Training assistance here
is free for Aritaur puppies. Health certification (we do not and will not
produce VWd affected dogs). Purchase contract. References
available if required. 6 weeks free insurance. Unlimited
support and re-homing assistance if ever required for the lifetime
of your dog. £10.00 per puppy donation to
Dobermann Rescue/Rehoming Association ~ contact Chris Omar ~ 01276
855326.
If you are interested
in owning an Aritaur Dobermann please mail or call us.
BASIC TRAINING
TIPS
With all training,
do not allow yourself or your dog to become stressed. No creature can concentrate when stressed, so if something isn't
working out, just stop and start again or panic and confusion will
set in. Keep your voice steady - with puppies do not use 'disciplinary
tones'. If you shout or snap commands, it sounds like you are barking, so
keep your voice mellow. You may find silent
or clicker training useful if your voice is sharp. Carry out each
exercise no more than three times. Any more and it becomes too repetitive.
Try to finish each task with a 'win', ie if puppy has succeeded
after try two, finish the exercise on a win, and leave it for another day. Go
back to basics when training your pup in whichever task it is.
However old they are, they don't always understand what your command
is - that is not their fault, it's yours for not giving it properly.
Just remember, there is always a reason for every action, it's up
to you to find out what it is. IMPORTANT remember - when your puppy
does the right thing, praise it! Otherwise how do they know that
they've done a good job? The words most puppies hear is 'NO, naughty
puppy, NO'! Try giving the puppy an opportunity to do something
right so they can receive praise. That will change the dynamic in their relationship with you and they will want to start to try and find ways to please you. The difference in them is amazing.
HOUSE TRAINING
TIPS
Choosing a breeder who starts toilet training early is a useful start, but your puppy now needs to realise that they can't relieve
themselves whenever or wherever they like.
When she relieves
herself in the house and is caught in the act, you may tell her
off immediately, but although she knows she has done something wrong,
she doesn't understand what it is, or what to do about it. If she's
urinated in the house and you haven't seen her doing it, don't bother
reprimanding her, it will be pointless and she'll only get worried
and anxious because again she's done something, but doesn't know
what. You therefore need to return to basics.
1. Bladder
control. She has never had to hold herself, so initially
these decisions need to be made for her. She must be taken outside
on the hour, every hour without fail. It is critical you don't forget,
set an alarm if necessary, for any mistakes at this stage are your
fault and will undo all your work. After a while with no accidents
(no sooner than a week), you can start to lengthen this time to
an hour and 5 minutes, 1 hour and 10 minutes then 15 minutes and
so on. Don't push your luck, again at this stage a mistake is a
real setback.
2. Command.
(Word association). Every time she urinates, give her a command
word. This could be anything - "do your business", "have
a pee", whatever, but nothing you usually say to her, and continue
this while she is urinating, repeat continually in a happy voice
with lots of praise. You may sound like an idiot, especially if
you're shouting happily your command across the other side of the
field, but she'll very quickly learn what to do. It is important
to repeat it over and over repeatedly in the same tone, whilst she is weeing.
The words need to be virtually drummed into her.
If you can get her
to wee in a particular place, then so much the better - again
it's association that is important, however, be aware that bitches
in particular who lack confidence, may show reluctance to urinate
anywhere else even when away from home and it can be dangerous for
them to hold out for a long time.
3. Restriction.
Often puppies who are raised in a particular area of the house,
urinate in that place if they can't get outside. Our dogs always
return to the dining room, because that was where their puppy pen
was, and access to outside was via the French windows next to it.
You must therefore remove that option from her. If she has to be
allowed to roam around places she has previously urinated in, then
clean that area with washing liquid ie Persil as it contains no
trace of ammonia to attract her to the patch and covers any existing
scent. Praise is the way
to train dogs, not punishment. Never, ever rub the puppy's
nose in his urine or excrement. Anyone who does that is not fit
to own a dog, because a) it's disgustingly cruel and b) it is their
fault for not knowing how to train a dog properly! |
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SOCIALISATION - Introduce your puppy to as much as possible before 12 weeks of age. If your pup sees something new to her after 12 weeks, she is far less likely to be able to accept it and may show fear avoidance. It is important not to fuss or reassure your pup if they show concern. Just sit next to them, let them watch it for a brief period, then distract them by walking on and give them a treat when they respond to you.
Aritaur dogs are vaccinated using either Procyon or Duramine vaccines, starting at 7 weeks and finishing at 10 to allow for early socialisation. These products are also the only two which cover Parvo Type 11, Coronavirus and are 3 year protocols hence avoiding repeated annual vaccination. |
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SEPARATION
ANXIETY TRAINING
Many dogs, especially
those who live without another dog, become so attached to their owners,
that when the owner leaves the house (or in some cases the room),
the dog becomes desperately worried. He feels alone and panicky,
and these feelings most often manifest themselves in destructive
behaviour and/or barking.
The basic treatment
for these behaviours is the same, and it will not be a miracle cure
overnight. Expect to be working on this for a month or more depending
on the severity of the separation anxiety.
Step 1.
From an early age when your new puppy comes home, do not let him
follow you around the house or around the room. He must learn independence,
and must also realise that you will always return to him sooner
or later. If he follows you around the house, shut the door to stop him following you and open it a second later before he's begun to register he's separated from you.
Teaching your dog
to stay, is the most useful of exercises to start with. This exercise
is NOT recall, it is to return to the dog. Start in the garden as
a game, tell him to sit or down with a definite command. Walk away
from him, wait for a few moments then return. If the dog creeps
after you whilst you are walking away, return to him, say 'go back'
and take him back to where you left him. This is important, you
mustn't let him lie down anywhere but where you asked him to stay.
When he is confident and staying where you tell him to, start to
increase the time until you can leave him for a good 5-10 minutes.
During this time you should let him see you moving around and when
you and he are really practiced, even going out of sight.
Use this exercise
in the house by telling him to wait in his basket. This teaches
him not to follow you from room to room. Eventually, (don't push
it too fast), you should go out of the house. Return after 1 minute,
then 5 the next day and so on. Remember on your return to give small
praise.
Step 2.
Make no touch, talk or eye contact when you leave the dog on his own, either leaving or
on your return. He will be ecstatic that you've come back to him
at last. Just say hello and carry on unpacking your shopping or
making a cup of tea. This doesn't mean you have to ignore him completely,
but you should ignore his constant demands for attention, no matter
how imploring he is or what toys he is bringing to you. Whatever
you do, don't go into "poor baby, Mummy's back now" routine.
Step 3.
Many people advise giving the dog a huge treat when you are leaving
him, such as a big bone or buster ball filled with treats to keep
him occupied and happy. However, if the only time he gets this is
when you are leaving him to go out of the house, you are simply
re-enforcing the issue of leaving the house, which is a big step.
Therefore, if you feel he needs something to do whilst you aren't
with him, give him the special treat whilst you go into other parts
of the house. This is his reward for being alone. You must of course
remove it when you return, because otherwise it loses it's special
meaning.
Step 4.
Try and reduce the dog's general dependency on you. When he comes
up for fuss, ignore him. A few minutes later, call him to you for
fuss. This is used to establish hierarchy in dominant dogs, however,
it is also useful for demanding dogs, which in a sense is dominant
- you must stop being your dog's personal slave! Never return,
talk or look at your dog when he is barking, even to just say no. Any attention
is attention of some sort and therefore a reward in his eyes. Ignoring
a dog is bad enough for them. Praise him calmly for being good and quiet. |
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How to end a perfect day's learning. 14th June training day. |
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CRATE TRAINING |
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Crates or cages
are invaluable with a young puppy. It offers them a place of sanctuary
and safety and importantly saves furniture, shoes and walls from being destroyed
whilst you need to go out. However, training your puppy to go in
a cage must be done carefully, otherwise puppy will think he is
being punished or trapped whereby panic will set in.
When puppy falls
asleep, pick him up gently and lay him in the crate with the door
pushed to. When he wakes up, don't take so long that he starts to
cry, or you'll get involved with having to wait for him to stop
before he can come out. He may need to relieve himself urgently,
but if you return to the cage whilst he is crying, he will begin
to think he can cry to get you to come, so don't delay.
During the day whilst
you are at home, train him to go in the cage for a treat like a
big bone that he can spend hours chewing on. When he goes in the
crate, tell him what a good boy he is, but in a soothing steady
voice, not an excited one.
When you leave him,
just walk away as in the separation training. None of the "now
be a good boy, Mummy won't be long chatter ". That will only reinforce
any anxiety. Do not feed him through the bars of the cage. It will
only escalate that he wants to get out. When you return, ignore him. Go past him (bouncing to get your attention), no talk, no touch, no eye contact - as Cesar Millan says, and make yourself a cuppa/open your mail/unload your shopping. When he's calm, THEN you pay attention to him. Don't wind him up again, just a calm, loving cuddle and praise him for being calm.
We will not sell to anyone whose dog would live in a crate or cage.
PUPPY BITING This is probably
the most common question we are asked 'how do I stop my puppy biting
me/the children?'. It's often a difficult concept to get your head
around, but puppies won't bite natural leaders - if they do, it's
just once. Most of the time it is because puppy lacks direction,
mental stimulation, and he is attention seeking. The remainder of
the time it's because the children have been rolling around on the
floor with pupy biting at their clothes/arms etc, and the puppy
can't therefore be expected to learn that is not acceptable behaviour.
Don't put the puppy in that poistion to make mistakes, then you won't
have to correct it. One lady asked me recently 'how do I stop my
dog jumping up atthe work surface?! This to me is quite odd, because
if you don't want the dog to jump up, you push it off. If you have
to have lessons in this sort of 'how to' situation, 100% you will not cope
with a Dobe. There is no technical manual. You can learn skills, but you either have authority or don't. |
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All puppies bite,
nip and chase with their teeth like mini land pirhanas, it's what
puppies do. They are not being mean or 'vicious' and it
will not last, so don't treat puppy as if he's been bad when he
nips. You just need to teach him not to and that is not by smacking.
The best way to treat a puppy if he has been over-rough when playing,
is with a firm "NO BITING!" and with you walking away from the game. Puppies
will nip when playing, and just as they have to with their litter~mates,
they need to learn bite tolerance (ie what hurts). Nipping can be
associated with teething (don't forget at 5-6 months to provide
something to chew on, or it could be your shoes), and it is also
of to see what they can get away with - or not! Mimicking litter mates with
a loud cry and walking away from them, will usually get the message
across and often diverting the puppy onto biting something fun like a raggy toy will make you far more popular and exciting to be with. Do remember puppies don't have TV or books, and they don't have their litter mates anymore, so if you aren't providing an interesting environment for your puppy, you'll get a bored puppy who is attention seeking. |
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| Brinley (aka Ch Aritaur Heracles at Brintala), with his daughter Talia (Aritaur Marmalade Vamp at Brintala). |
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Never ever smack a puppy or dog across the face or
nose. You will end up with a head shy animal and it is the fastest
way to create a snappy animal. If you tap puppy on the nose as some
believe, the automatic retaliation is to bite back. Remember to
emulate the way a bitch enforces her discipline on the puppies with
a warning growl, eye contact and a quick snap if necessary; this
behaviour should be imitated by you when correcting puppy's behaviour.
Hold puppy gently around the scruff, just to stop them biting for
no longer than a second, then release and long gentle strokes
to calm him down. If he turns around to bite your hand, you are
either holding too hard, or you have a very dominant puppy. Try
first easing off a bit on the hold, but otherwise distract them
with a loud noise and them immediately divert their attention onto
something positive like a quick training session. Show them there
is another way by giving them a chewy toy - usually flesh is much
more yielding and toys don't yelp, but he will get the idea if you
just fold your arms or walk away and ignore him. Remember, you would
never let an adult male dog, chew or mouth your arm, so don't allow
it as a youngster. Do not expect a puppy to understand that rolling
on the floor with your children is okay but running after them biting
their ankles is not. Remember at all
times that puppy needs a lot of mental stimulation - this breed
is so intelligent, it's like leaving a 5 year old playing alone
all day. Puppies don't have television to occupy them so you must
do plenty of activities with them. First time owners into the breed
frequently contact us to ask how they can cope with keeping puppy
occupied because they are behaving really badly - they are bored.
This phase will not last forever, but it can be hard work (especially
when your favourite shoes are eaten). See the Books
Link for ideas |
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Aritaur
Helina, Histabraq & Hermione
- (Int & Multi, Russ Ch Tamerlan
iz Slavnoi Stai x Ned Ch & Europa Jugend Siegerin Aritaur Dominatrix),
sunbathing aged 10 weeks. The H litter - including the most famous sister Ch Aritaur Hipnotique and their brother Ch Aritaur Heracles at Brintala, became one of the top winning UK litters, and made their dam Lux, Bel W & Ned Ch Aritaur Dominatrix, the Top Brood Bitch in the Working Group 2007 and their sire, Top Stud Dog - the first Dobermann outside the UK to achieve the title. |
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