Jay is affiliated with the BIPDT (British Institute of Professional Dog Trainers), recognised worldwide as the primary organisation for professional dog trainers. Martin is Chairman of South Cheshire Schutzhund club and a qualified track layer with the BSA - British Schutzhund Club.

Subjects:
How to train
LEAD TRAINING
Equipment problems
Tips
Examples

There is no 'one way' to train a Dobermann as all dogs are as different as their owners are from each other, so you should understand your dog in more depth to enjoy a true partnership with your dog.

The hard truth - behaviour problems usually come from you not the dog. You may have trained your dog just the same as you trained the last one, but you didn't train according to his character (www.volhard.com character assessment test) which was totally different from your last dog so you get different behaviour. Character comes from genetics (nature); behaviour from environment (nurture). Convenient though it may be to blame your dog for his unruly, aggressive, lead pulling, dog aggression and general ADHT, a breeder can place two puppies with identical characters in different homes and their behaviour will be totally different. The one brought up with direction, leadership and guidance will, (unless nature has given him an unbalanced character defect) behave calmly and show focused learning without frustration. The other raised with either too much or too little discipline will be throwing himself at you/others, not listen to you, chase your feet, your hands, launching at the windows to get other dogs and/or bite you/others. If you want a well behaved dog, look at what you do to possibly cause the behaviour and question if it needs changing.

There seems to be a modern belief that discipline is a bad word. A dog is not a human. If you treat a dog like a human and expect it to behave like a human, you are working against nature and you will create problems. Not the dog creating problems; you.

Consider common problems:

Guards all the time - needs leadership to tell him when it is necessary, appropriate and a real threat not just perceived danger.
Jumps up biting the lead or chasing feet - high prey drive, needs channelling and boundaries to dictate that behaviour is unacceptable.
Fails to recall - you're more boring than the rabbit
Dog aggressive - constant barking or wanting to fight - lack of leadership, possible fear and/or lack of socialisation.
Refuses to obey/listen - you bore them, over use their name/commands, nag or shout commands like they’re deaf.

Most dogs are bored and lack any mental stimulation in their lives. To me this is as bad as not sending a child to school. No socialisation, no education, 1 hours' exercise a day.....why get a dog?! Years ago the working abilities of the Dobermann were harnessed with good training clubs in most areas, but the majority of dogs are no longer trained correctly (if at all) and are left to mentally fester. Most owners just want well behaved, socially acceptable dogs but either don't consider their dogs' mental requirements, don't care or just don't know what options are available to them (see working page). When people enquire about puppies and I ask why they want a Dobe, they reply 'because they are so intelligent'. I then ask what they are planning to 'do' with the dog and the silence is deafening. They like the look of the dog but haven't considered what is underneath.

Dobermanns are too smart for the average handler which is one reason the police do not use Dobermanns, preferring the more biddable GSD. Dobes anticipate your next move and figure what they need to do for the situation. Dobes will excel in whatever field you wish to train them in, but their success depends on the quality of your training, understanding and empathy with them. Dogs learn behaviour from us. If we push them around, force them to do things or let them get away with things, they will behave accordingly.

Dobes react with a fine line between hard handling and over soft handling and the influence from owners can make or break the dog. They need to respect their owners, but correction response must be proportionate to the behaviour. View undesired behaviour on a scale of 1-10. If your dog is chasing a cat and his prey drive is up at level 9, there is no discipline in you saying gently 'leave it baby, be a good boy' - at level 3 correction. Proportionate response to snap him out of the undesired behaviour then immediately into 'pack' - his focus with you. A hard voice - no need to shout (unless you or your dog is deaf!), is just as harsh a punishment as a smack, so give a snap correction then immediately praise when he stops the undesired behaviour. This is not inconsistent training; it is switching the dog from prey to pack; rewarding his focus on you, not the cat - who is very grateful.

Stop looking for the technical solution. All the time people ask 'how can I do x? '. The answer is you just do it. If you lack the parenting skills and common sense to stop undesired behaviour in your children, if you act without authority in all you do, you are unlikely to succeed with a Dobe. Authority and confidence comes from within. We can give you the tools and appropriate methods to suit you, your dog for the undesired behaviour, but if you carry it out without confidence, your Dobe will see right through you. If you want to be respected and listened to by your dog when you're out walking, then you must behave like a good leader in the home.

Our dogs know the boundaries and are therefore allowed privileges like being on the settee and upstairs when we allow . If they push the limits, we snap our fingers, raise our eyebrows and they get off! We don't have to nag our dogs because they know the rules and consequences. We are neither soft nor hard, but we do give clear boundaries of acceptable behaviour and we do not reward undesired behaviour. Start as you mean to go on from day one.It's a dog. Treat it like a dog not a little baby.

Dogs require pack structure and clear, calm, strong leadership. Dogs learn behaviour just as children do. If your household is run aggressively with shouting, lack of structure and physical or verbal violence towards the dogs or other family members, your dogs will reflect that and react accordingly. That is what you will have taught them and the way they think they should behave as it's all they know.

The most difficult thing to teach an owner, is how to project a natural, calm authority. Dogs don't need dominating or mollycoddling. There are very few truly dominant dogs, but many dogs assume the leadership role because no-one else has provided it to them. Weak people (especially those with a temper) cannot lead.

TIPS

Don't reward bad behaviour. If you are going out for a walk and your dog is leaping around like a nutter, do not put his collar on until he is calm. Same for the lead. Same for going out of the door. Same for getting out of the car. Reward calm behaviour or you will have taught him that being unstable gets results. If you shout NO, naughty boy, STOP doing that, NO! and keep pushing him off jumping on you. Stand still, say nothing, don't react with shouting or constant commands. Stand up straight and calmly - regally, and watch him calm down. If you have 'rough played' with the dog, you will have created this problem, so don't do it from the start! Dogs do not understand it!

Walk fast. This is a high energy breed so move it! Don't slouch along, walk with purpose like a pack leader. Exercise him, don't just wander along. That will build more frustration and will equal more pulling.

Communicate with your dog with your face, hands, body. The dog will respond to 'less yap' from you. Saying sit 10 times becomes 'white noise' - it goes over his head. Find alternatives to food reward. Work smarter and harder.

Ensure your dog enjoys training. There is NO place for force. Trainers who use force don't have the brains to figure another method. Keep an approachable, kind face, good eye contact and smile to reward.

Never train if you're in a bad mood. Never train if you are in a rush. Always have a clear goal of what you want to achieve.

If your dog is becoming worse at club, leave the club. It is the wrong environment for you and your dog where frustration is the norm and poor trainers will do more harm than good. Neither humans nor dogs can learn under stress. Remove stress, train in the home, then once the behaviour is embedded, step by step take it outside, then down the road, then in the park. If you see your dog is becoming stressed, stop.

Don't train if the dog isn't 100% fit or feeling good. As with all training, if your dog 'forgets' what you ask him, go back to basics.

Don't use compulsion (force) when training unless you are at a very proficient level of training. You will build up resistance leading to frustration.

Keep training short and sweet. 2 minute sessions a day is quite sufficient. Dobes are fast workers, fast learners with high energy. Train quickly and with interest. Train in 'modules' then when the desired behaviour is embedded (many weeks later), string the exercises together. If you rush things before the exercise is 100% solid, you will break the confidence and teach your dog to make errors. Don't train the same exercise more than three times and if the dog succeeds at the second attempt, leave it there for the day. Leave it time to soak in.

If using toys, don't leave the best toy lying around. Toys need to retain their appeal. Anything too easily on offer is of little attraction.

If using food, tailor the right level of reward - liver is 'too exciting' to be used in normal training. Use Edam cheese cut into small dice and ready cooked cocktail sausages. Keep food reward to small pieces.

If using a toy, a couple of old (preferably clean) socks inside other socks is a good cheap toy to hold onto. Move onto a small hessian sack rolled and tied into a manageable size. Toys = higher prey, so you'll need to be ready to cope with higher drive - faster working, more focus on the object and with you.

Praise promptly - use a clicker, or say 'yes' and reward. Dogs work in the moment. It is imperative that you reward instantly.

If your dog doesn't want to work close to you or is constantly trying to get away, question why? Why are you so unappealing that your dog wants to be away from you?! Maybe you are boring and there is a much more exciting life away from you, or your dog feels he should be protecting you (you may be weak and he's assumed the role of pack leader), or you may be nagging him to death.

Correct delivery of food is important. Keep your hand closed over the reward until the dog is in the required position. Delivery must be instantaneous when desired behaviour is achieved. Leave it too long and the dog will move - he's trying to figure out what he needs to do to get the reward, so doesn't learn to do what you want.

Stand up straight and don't lean over your dog. Read Dog Training for Dummies - don't think you're 'above' the book because of the title. It will change your views on training and give you a great understanding of dog behaviour and how to manipulate and channel drives.

LEAD work Leads and collars are there for security only. Leads do not exist to allow the dog to pull. Your dog should have learned to walk at your side without pulling. If another dog approaches and you tighten the lead so the dogs head becomes raised, the other dog will perceive your dog as aggressive and behave accordingly, so relax and check the lead if/when necessary.Checking is not pulling. It's a 'chink' on a half choke - for those who are riders, it's a 'half halt'.- Never allow your dog to pull. Sounds easy, but consider the new puppy out for his first walk on the lead. What does everyone do? They follow their puppy aw, cute puppy He pulls to go to smell the bushes and he learns wherever he goes they follow, so on day he learns that pulling gets him places. Dog's got it sussed! You taught him to pull! Pitching your weight against the dog is unpleasant, unacceptable and teaches your dog that he's stronger. NEVER get into push me, pull you. It is not a conflict battle. You are the boss and the dog does not get to pull ahead. How to correct it? Pulling means you stop. Full stop!

This is a question of leadership. If he pulls, you stop, 'check' back (don't haul back), wait until he returns to your side, then continue on a relaxed lead when he is at your side. Don't keep talking. Let him figure it out or you'll end up with him feeding off your anxiety. Dobermanns tend to walk slightly ahead due to their guarding nature, but when the lead is on, the dog walks to heel with a loose lead. Your right hand is your anchor with the lead at your belly. Use your left hand to slide down the lead to 'put the brake on'. You stand still, he has no option but to return to get going again. The instant he returns to your side you walk on. Break it up with some sits, circle lefts (to build pack) etc. 5 good paces of heelwork is a great start.

If you keep a tense lead the dog will naturally resist. If you fight your dog, expect him to fight back. Most people walk far too slowly. Go out to exercise your dog, not just to take a lazy wander. It's a Dobermann.

EQUIPMENT - DIFFERENT leads/collars and their uses:

Solid/full collar – if the dog pulls, the result will be you and dog pitching strength against each other
Choke – offers control through force as with all collars, dangerous if misused. Literally chokes. Possibility of misdirected aggression if in a dog squabble – as seen at a recent Ch show where handler choked her dog to pull him away – he bit her to get free.
½ choke collar –  leather/fabric with chain used correctly – relax and squeeze/check only when dog pulls – one of the best, however, if you allow the dog to pull or rest against the collar, you may as well use a solid collar.
Headcollar (Halti/Dogmatic) – lots of different varieties offer great control. Caution not to allow the noseband to ride up into the dogs eyes, and extra caution not to allow the dog to get in front because when you pull back, the dog’s head will be pulled sideways causing neck problems. Dogmatic is a better option as it uses the martingale principle on a horse’s bridle. Also take caution with a defensive dog who may feel more defensive with something around his head especially if it pulls his eyes closed.
Harness – good all ‘round option – don’t allow dog to pitch against you, but controlling the whole front is a powerful way to exert control.
Pinch collar - looks barbaric but is actually considerably kinder if used correctly – than yanking the dog off it’s feet. Pinch action all ‘round neck (try it on arm before deciding), gives huge amounts of control and direction with minimal effort. Like using spurs on a horse, used very lightly means you don’t have to kick the horse’s side.

NB You can try every type of collar and lead if the dog is still pulling you need to question why. Dogs will pull even on the pinch collar if your leadership is in question or your walk is too slow or if he is in high defense or prey, so sort that out rather than just relying on the tools.

Leads should be leather – nylon will cut your hands if dog pulls, chain will crush your hand if dog pulls, however, never wrap the lead around the hand – this morning a rescue dog owner had her finger broken when her dog pulled.

HOW TO TEACH:

SIT Teach your puppy/dog to sit: Using a treat or toy, stand up straight in front of your dog and just out of reach, take the food over the back of the head. If your hand is too high or if you are leaning forward (putting the dog into defence), the dog may just walk backwards. Try seeing how your body language moves the dog. Lean (your torso) back, holding food at your waist and the dog will come into you more than if you lean over him. You may gently touch the puppy's back end but if you push you a) risk hurting the back end and b) introduce resistance /defense. One very ignorant 'trainer' at a breed club (who has been in the breed for long enough to know), uses lots of lead yanking and dominance to train. He recently told a little 6 month old puppy who was refusing to sit - 'you'll not get the better of me'. Using the right reward and good body language she sits in a flash for her owner, but she had built up resistance because the atmosphere was so stressful for her. Sad.

LIE DOWN Teach your puppy to lie down: From a sit (easiest) with the dog on your left, kneel on the floor with food in your right hand to the right of your right leg. Show him the food 'through' your leg and he will crawl through your leg to get the food. You may have to very gently remind his bum to go down by touching it (never push on a puppy's body - by doing so you introduce compulsion instead of willing behaviour and secondly it can damage soft baby ligaments). The moment he does lie down, repeat 'down, good boy, down' in a soft praising voice. After a number of days you should be able to take the leg away.

Teach your puppy/dog to recall from an early age by making much of them on their return. A 'good dog' reward with a little pat is insufficient in comparison with chasing the rabbit they had the scent or sight of. From an early age, lose your inhibitions and make a great song and dance about the dog returning to you. Practice in the garden. If the pup does a fly past, catch him by the collar (mind you don't yank the neck) and reward him like he meant to come back to you all along. Do not build in a neat sit presentation in front of you until after 1 year old at least. Module training and linking them together later, otherwise you will put inhibition in on the recall and mess that up!

Use food sparingly to embed the desired behaviour in your dog and don't withdraw it too early. The intermittent removal of food reward leaves the dog wondering how to win the reward. Learn about clicker training as an alternative to constant feeding, but don't be afraid to keep using food motivation up to 6 months/1 year for the required training.

House training & Crate training in the puppy pack download link from main page.

http://www.petplanet.co.uk/petplanet/show/general_dog_showing.htm - excellent website about showing. I'll find more on dog clubs in your areas.

Dealing with aggression towards other dogs and separation anxiety - coming soon but I have to go and exercise our lot!