ࡱ> "` bjbj .JH  HCHCHC8CD| x`D(D4DDDOOObxdxdxdxdxdxdx$C{h}fx uaMN"O^uauax DDxllluab D DbxluabxllVs@( tDD 6HCfVt bxx0x*tx~-i~t~ tO UPlYtN]'OOOxxk^OOOxuauauaua -8d 8  ARITAUR DOBERMANNS PUPPY INFORMATION PACK    This is an example of our puppy pack. You are welcome to copy it if you would be useful to you, but please do not misrepresent our opinions. BREEDING BACKGROUND    YOUR PUPPY/ GENERAL Despite the long journeys and cost involved in this breeding, we felt that Tamerlan was the right male for Asia. We had seen many of his progeny and felt he had the right attributes for Asia. This is a truly global pedigree combining some of the best bloodlines in the World, from Russia to America, England and Middle Europe. Asia very proudly whelped her first litter with no problems, and had 10 strong healthy puppies. Throughout their first weeks with us, we have been delighted with their balanced, outgoing character and are confident that they will fulfil their new owners expectations. These puppies have had the best possible start in life and we have high hopes that your puppy will reflect the excellent breeding and rearing we have provided for them. Your puppy has been bred for sound character and temperament, good health beauty and brains. They are confident and have no fear of humans as no one has ever frightened them. You have been carefully chosen as new owners for the puppy as we are sure they will thrive in your loving environment. Its hard parting with any of our pups to their new homes, but it makes it easier knowing they are loved and cared for, so please keep us updated on their progress no matter how old they are. Photos are always very much appreciated. You can never trouble us too much where one of our puppies is concerned. Each breed has their own idiosyncrasies, and vets are not Dobermann experts. If you have any problem no matter how small it may seem, please call us first. Whether its a behavioural or medical problem, we will at least be able to give you some guidance, which may prevent further problems or large expense. In any emergency, dont hesitate to call the vet. We have enclosed a comprehensive guide to caring for your new puppy. Some of you have owned a Dobermann before, but some of the advice may be useful as an outline on how to care for your new companion, as every dog is an individual and it may be a shock to the system having a new puppy in the house again! PHYSICAL & MENTAL WELFARE "THE DOBERMANN; THE FIRMEST FRIEND, THE FIRST TO WELCOME AND THE FIRST TO DEFEND" This breed is highly valued for their physical and mental ability. This is not a breed for the weak-willed person, nor suitable for the macho owner. The Dobermann needs not just exercise, but mental stimulation and is not satisfied being house-bound 23 hours a day with one hours run around the park. They need mental activity and thrive on being worked and a useful asset to the pack ~ your family. They are not an outside/kennel dog and should not be left for long periods in isolation. If you left a child alone all day left to entertain themselves without anything to do, you would have considerable behavioural difficulties. If you treat your Dobermann like that, expect problems like that ~ destructiveness, dominance and anxiety problems - both of you! Basically, dont expect to leave your dog in the house alone for hours on end, and think you will end up with a well- balanced animal. You wont. We feel the Dobermann has a valuable place in society and do not feel that all the valuable services that dogs offer our society Hearing dogs for the Deaf, Guide dogs for the Blind, drug detection, cadaver dogs, search and rescue etc, should be left to other breeds. We feel proud that Dobermanns have a brain and we wish to preserve it. Using your dogs mind gives you a massive bond with your dog which all those people miss out on. Those who only want the breed to be couch potatoes, do a great disservice to the breed and are fundamentally lazy owners and breeders. This should not just be a pretty showring breed! The Dobermann is, as it says above the best friend to your family and an asset to society. LEADERSHIP & GUIDANCE Good behaviour is vital with this breed, and training must be done with care. There is a very fine line between being too hard or too soft. Despite their tough exterior, they are a very sensitive breed, and being harsh or shouting too loudly will never be forgotten. You do need to let the dog know his or her place in the pack, however, we prefer to use terms such as leadership and guidance instead of discipline and dominance. You will achieve much more with calm, natural authority and leadership. No breed should be controlled with physical dominance and dogs will live by the rules if they know what the rules are. By their nature, the Dobermann will try and push their luck a bit, so you must offer clear guidance, and be clear with your rules and commands with the whole family keeping the same words and actions for training. The best way to treat a puppy if he/she has been naughty or over-rough when playing, is by walking away from the game. This does not mean to the puppy that he has won. Alpha animals move away. Pups bite. Its what they do. They will nip when playing, and just as they have to with their litter mates, they need to learn bite tolerance (ie what hurts). Nipping can be associated with teething (dont forget at 5-6 months to provide something to chew on, or it could be your shoes), but it is also a symptom of trying to dominate you. Walking away will usually get the message across. No matter how much it may hurt you, never ever smack or even tap a puppy or dog across the face or nose. You will end up with a head shy animal and it is the fastest way to create a snappy animal. Remember to emulate the way a bitch enforces her discipline on the puppies with a warning growl, eye contact and a quick snap if necessary; this behaviour should be imitated by you when correcting puppys behaviour. If you have the opportunity to watch a dam with her pups, you will see she will take pre-emptive action on the dominant pups by holding them down around their neck in her mouth for a short while. If you feel it necessary, a firm hold around the neck not just pulling the skin on the scruff - for 5/6 seconds followed immediately by a smooth stroke to soften the hold and encourage licking (at which point you say kisses, good pup, kisses rather than to encourage a fight by scruffing). Go back to basics when training your pup in whatever way it may be. However old they are, if a pup doesnt understand your command, you need to make it clearer calmly. Just remember, there is always a reason for every action, its up to you to find out what it is. We use half~choke collars which cannot hurt your dog unless you yank him off its feet. Dont pitch your weight against your dog. If he pulls stop. When he relaxes, walk on. Dont train him to pull! Harnesses can be useful but Haltis and head collars are really only when things have gone wrong. We ask you not to use a full choke chain, they can be very damaging in the wrong hands, and are totally unnecessary on a dog that has been trained correctly in the first place. Dobermanns can be a difficult breed as they are so clever they get bored quickly if theyre not kept interested, so if you start experiencing behavioural problems or disobedience of any kind, please call us. Being so smart, they can often establish a problem before you even recognise it as such. Unless you have a good vet, they tend not to be aware of behavioural issues, and trying different techniques to control the problem can make it worse. Dont let people tell you that you musnt let your dog do certain things - like sleep upstairs or get on the settee. If you want your dog upstairs thats entirely your choice and is fine as long as its clear that it is at your choice. As long as your dog knows his/her commands and that you/your family are boss all will be fine. Its when dogs think they can get away with things that youll have problems, so give them rules in which to work and dont tolerate disobedience, but bear in mind that training a Dobermann should be done subtly thing where possible. Puppies love to kiss faces; it mimics licking the mouth of the Dam. They cant understand why not all humans like that, so if you dont want them to kiss your face, give them something else to lick like your ears! Dont push them away without giving them an alternative way to show their affection to you. SOCIALISING WITH OTHER DOGS Whether your dog is a pet or you choose to show your dog, do agility, working trials, Schutzhund, tracking etc, your dog has the ability to adapt to any one or more of the above. We strongly recommend you join a local training club, not because you cant train your dog to sit or lie down, but there is more to life. Training clubs provide great environments for puppy and dog socialisation, but additionally your Dobermann will enjoy learning new commands and pleasing you. This is an exceptionally clever breed, and usually the most intelligent breed that most trainers have worked with is the German Shepherd Dog. Many trainers therefore, tend to try to train Dobermanns in a manner appropriate to that breed. GSDs will rarely tire of repetitive tasks, but twice or three times is sufficient for a Dobermann to learn something and they will get very bored after that, so you have to be innovative, entertaining and not repetitive. Never train the same thing more than three times in one session. If your dog clicks onto it after the second go, finish on a win. Train in short modules for no more than 5 minutes at a time. Allow time for the new theories to sink into the pups mind. The only thing holding you and your dog back is your imagination! See our website working page for ideas and our list of books at the bottom of the pack for training suggestions. Try to find a good club by asking at your vets, or local people with dogs if they know of any. We have contacts throughout the UK who can usually recommend a good club in their area. The Kennel Club provide a list of accredited trainers in your area who may also run or know of good clubs. Avoid clubs who want to take your money for classes or courses up front. Good clubs will suggest you come to watch and see if its the type of club you like first. Go and check the club out in advance of puppy being ready to go out. Avoid any club who tells you to use a choke or a Halti on a puppy. These items are solely for adult dogs who have developed a problem or are particularly difficult. By their nature as guard dogs, this breed does prefer to walk slightly ahead to ward off potential attack, so advise your trainer if he/she is unfamiliar with this breed, that this is natural. Any club who advises you to smack your puppy or dog should be closed down! There is never any need to smack a dog although even some so called top trainers and kennels resort to violence against their dogs. Those who do so, are just showing their ignorance of how to control their dog. Tapping/smacking on the nose is a huge mistake as you will make your dog head shy. You are quite right to tell your puppy or dog in no uncertain terms that you are the boss, but voice commands or strong eye contact are usually sufficient. Martin or I will happily show you how to handle your dog with understanding if needs be. We are always here for training or other questions, even if you just want to reassure yourself that your training club has given you the right information. Always try and see training from the dogs point of view. Having a noose around your neck may not be your idea of fun. Work WITH your dog, dont fight against it. You will gain considerably more respect if your dog enjoys being with you and being trained by you. You can see scores of dogs who just dont want to be with their owners they pull in every opposite direction to their owner. Avoid those people who rush to put their dogs on the lead as soon as they see you coming. This is the cause of so many problems in dogs who are not allowed to socialise properly as they begin to think there is something strange to worry about. When two dogs see each other, they will size each other up from a distance and then either retreat or advance as they see fit. When they are being walked towards each other on leads, dogs natural body behaviour changes, and they are approaching each other at a forced pace being lifted higher due to people holding the lead tightly. They are therefore perceived as more aggressive by the other dog. Walk away because it will only lead to trouble. Its amazing how many people have dogs and dont understand basic dog behaviour. You know the type who wont let dogs sniff other dogs bums because they think its dirty! If dogs growl at each other, call them away and walk on; usually the dogs will not have got so close in the first place if they thought there would be a fight (unless you have an aggressive, dominant or fearful animal that is a different situation). Relaxing, behaving calmly and moving on promptly in a possible hostile situation will usually avert any attack far better than grabbing the dog to put its lead on. When you reach out to grab and pull your dog away, you are escalating the flashpoint for a problem. Just give a brusque Barbara Woodhouse no-nonsense type come on, lets go! Make eye contact with your dog regularly. No dog can be fully trained to have total focus on his owner/ trainer without making eye contact. Start by teaching your puppy that looking in their eyes (NOT staring) is a good thing. Using either food or just a cooey voice say look at me what a good girl/boy (using food hold it up between your eyes and the moment the dog contacts you give him/her the titbit) with lots of smiles and kind eyes (it sounds strange, but it works). Its important that you initiate eye contact not just that your dog looks at you. When your dog is getting over excited in any situation, you can diffuse the situation by stopping still, calmly saying watch me, good dog and starting over again when the dog is calmer. In times of trouble or anxiety, turn your dog around (not by hauling him on the lead) and get him to be in pack with you, work with him to divert his focus onto you and then to relax. EXERCISE Dont over-exercise your young puppy. Before bones are fully formed around 18 months they are not strong, and too much walking and bouncing, can cause growth problems and weak joints. Until your Dobermann is over 6 months old, they should be limited in the amount of free-running they are allowed. Dont let the puppy charge up and down stairs, use a baby gate if necessary, and no bouncing on and off furniture or low walls in the garden. Up to 16 weeks, we recommend a maximum of hour walk daily on the lead. Thereafter, increase gradually between 6 months to a year when they can have an hour plus a day. Be extra careful around 6 -9 months as they are teething heavily at the back and calcium is diverted from the bones to the teeth thereby causing some softer bones for a while (notice flat feet and fly ears), so restrict free running to a maximum of say 5 minutes daily. Obviously if you have a big garden and many dogs, just keep an eye on it. For supplements see below. Good exercise for putting muscle tone on dogs over 18 months, is for them to trot gently (no pounding really fast) alongside you riding a bike. It builds up good muscles in the right places, and you can get twice as much exercise done in the same amount of time. Spend the rest of the dogs time on brain exercise. Many people have different opinions; some dont let their dogs free run until they are over a year (socialisation problems are bound to occur); some let theirs run free from day one. As soon as your pup can go out, take him out to a safe place and let him off the lead. He will naturally follow, so gently call him to you when he comes of his own accord and let that be the basis of your training. Just be sensible about the exercise and remember those baby bones! We recommend using an indoor cage for puppy to sleep in and to retreat to when it is time for a nap or when there are too many people or children around. but you cant socialise the puppy correctly and integrate them with other members of the family if it is always in the cage hell be wild when hes let out. However, if the puppy needs somewhere to sleep quietly, or if they need to be kept safe whilst you are out, they can be useful. They can also save damage if the puppy misses you whilst you are out and decides to destroy your furniture or chew a few electrical cables. There is no reason why your puppy should not be allowed to sleep upstairs. We have always insisted that our new pups slept by the bedside in their new owners homes and have never accepted the old fashioned puppy must be shut alone in the kitchen to howl itself to sleep for a few nights. It is not something we want for our puppies as it creates stress and uncertainty. Apart from being basic cruelty to a small confused baby, we strongly believe that is destructive to the human/canine bond. See crate training section below, and Bruce Fogles The Dogs Mind* in which he advocates puppies sleeping near to their owners. HOUSE TRAINING Your puppy will be partially house trained when she arrives at your home. They are used to going on towelling. You cannot reasonably expect to get away without accidents and you may think youve cracked it only to find you have a relapse (sometimes up to 5 months). Puppy does not yet know how to ask to go outside, so the training is up to you. You must be disciplined about puppy going outside. If you start getting cross when you have found an accident done earlier, you will only start to introduce stress which in turn will lead to other unwanted behaviour. Puppy now needs to be taught when and where to relieve herself, and this has to be done step by step. If I thought anyone would be the sort of people to rub puppys noses in their dirt when they make a mistake, we wouldnt sell them a puppy. 1. Bladder control. Puppy has never had to hold herself, so initially these decisions need to be made for her. She must be taken outside on the hour, every hour without fail. Dont forget; set an alarm during the day (we all get distracted and miss the signals), as any mistakes at this stage are your fault and will undo your work. Always take pup out after waking up and before meals. After a time with no accidents (no sooner than a week), you can start to lengthen this time to an hour and 5 minutes, 1 hour and 10 minutes then 15 minutes and so on. Dont push your luck, again at this stage a mistake is a real setback. 2. Command. (Word association). Every time Puppy pees, give her a command word. This could be anything do your business, have a pee etc, but nothing you usually say to her like good girl, it must be a different word and while she is urinating, repeat it continually with lots of praise. If you can get her to pee in a particular place, thats better again its association that is important, however, some bitches in particular may show reluctance to urinate anywhere else when away from home. If you see puppy peeing inside, do NOT race towards her shouting. You can say oh no, and if its not too late, then pick her up and take her outside and continue the command word. There is never any point in pointing to the offending area after the event. Dogs dont have memories of what they did and pointing at the carpet will mean nothing to them. 3. Restriction. If she does soil inside and habitually goes in a usual place, remove that option from her. If she has to be allowed to roam around places she has previously urinated in, then clean that area with washing liquid ie Persil as it contains no trace of ammonias to attract her to the patch and covers any existing scent. CRATE/CAGE TRAINING The trick with crate training and not having a mini-screaming maelstrom, is to not put puppy in crate as a punishment or to calm down if he is manically excited! He will hate the crate for always if you do. When he has fallen asleep ~ usually in the most inaccessible area in the house, pick him up gently and lay him to sleep in the cage with the door closed. When he wakes up, and before he cries to come out, let him out and take him straight out to the yard. Only put him in when hes really tired or with a treat, that way it wont be seen as a trap. At night, put the crate next to your bed (puppy does not have to stay there forever and if you think its dirty having a dog upstairs, youre too fussy to have a dog!). Downstairs is for play, upstairs and lights out is for sleep. Puppy can hear you breathing and you can talk calmly soothing him. When puppy cries youre there very promptly to take him out for a pee and put him straight back afterwards. Housetraining overnight will take just a couple of nights and you have a happy, stress free puppy who is not terrified of being left alone. Bruce Fogle * writes that it can be beneficial in training to let the newly acquired pup sleep in the same room as his owners as it cements the new forming bond between them. This is during the critical socialisation period to 12 weeks of age when the puppy thrives on togetherness. FEEDING & GENERAL NUTRITION We have trialled and tested the better complete brands on the market, with one over-riding criteria no additives, chemicals, synthetic antioxidants (man made preservatives) or colourants whether EEC permitted or not ~ the EEC are not nutritional experts. Dobermanns are susceptible to skin problems from food. If you take your pup to the vet because he has spots or scurfy skin, you will be sold numerous antibiotics (short term measure), shampoo (which will dry his skin out even more) and probably skin scrapes. When Juno was a puppy she was reared on a food packed with chemicals, and as a consequence had a terrible coat with spots on her back and shoulders. After many costly antibiotics, skin punches and scrapes at the vets all returning negative, we suspected it was dietary and changed her onto Nutro, a complete food but with no additives, preservatives or synthetic antioxidants. Within a week the spots had gone, and she had a clear coat. We have had a few situations where a dietary change (often back to Nutro or onto BARF), have cleared a problem very promptly. Vets love to make money out of prescribing antibiotics, doing skin scrapes and all sorts of tests, but most skin problems are dietary related. If your vet really wants to do some invasive tests (this involves an anaesthetic), ask him how often skin scrapes and punches come back with positive results? If your dog develops a skin problem, please give us a ring and well try to help identify why. Our pups are weaned on Nutro Choice Medium mixed with a little yoghurt/cottage cheese. Maintain Nutro Medium for 7-8 months before moving them onto an adult food. Due to their fast growth rate they should not remain on puppy food much past this time (high protein see Panosteitis/growing pains later), however, each dog is different, and if you feel that they are not bodied up enough to warrant an adult diet, then keep them on the puppy food for another month or so. Dobermanns are a lean, muscular breed and need good protein and fats to build body. Better to have a slightly fatter (not fat) puppy than a skinny one. They need sufficient fat to turn into muscle. You may choose to add in fresh, raw meat yourself instead. We now feed our adults on the BARF (Bones & Raw Food Diet), which comprises a wholewheat based biscuit with meat liver, kidneys, heart, tripe (depending on individual dogs requirements) in the morning, and a chicken carcass or turkey neck in the evening. It is more time consuming than complete foods, and although we have always fed raw meat in addition to complete foods, we felt we wanted to make the total change to raw food. We wouldnt recommend any other complete food than Nutro, but we personally prefer our current feeding method for the adults. If your pup goes off his complete food, just add some variety like cottage cheese/yoghurt/sardines/ light table scraps etc. These are very approximate feeding times and can be changed gradually to suit your timetable. From 8 weeks 3 months 4 meals per day 7.30am/ 1.00/ 6.00/ 10.30-11.30 From 3 6 months 3 meals per day 7.30am/ 1.00/ 6.30 6 months + 2 meals per day 7.30/ 6.30 As puppies have such small stomachs, it is unkind, unfair and unhealthy to expect them to be able to eat their daily rations in large lots. Never give less than 3 meals daily for a baby, if you cant manage that, then get someone to come in and feed puppy. He/she shouldnt be alone for all that time anyway. Its often a good idea to skip a meal in exchange for a biscuit or fresh raw meaty bone, so use a bone if youre out for a while. BUYING FOOD You will have been supplied with a 15kg sack of food which will last you a couple of months. You can then buy food directly from Nutro on 0800 0680608 by mail order (min order 2 x15kg sacks) or get vouchers to use in local stockists call Nutro for details. AMOUNTS TO FEED Varies according to each dogs metabolism, exercise routine and environment/ weather. You should become the judge of whether your dog is fat, thin or just right. Do not blindly follow the pack guidelines. There should be a good covering on the ribs, and you should be able to feel them, but they shouldnt show. Along the loin (waist), there should be no major indent, but also no love handles. At 7 weeks, the puppies weigh an average of 18 lbs. Useful rule of thumb is loose stools either too much food, wrong food or stomach imbalance, rock hard stools not enough food. Puppy is currently having around 80g/3 oz Nutro (pre soaked) per meal and some extras of either cottage cheese, plain yoghurt, pulped vegetables, tinned/fresh fish or raw meat. Manufacturers tell you never to add other food with their complete meal but we dont believe that dogs should have a balanced diet in one meal. Rather that it should be balanced over a longer period. With a complete food you dont have to feed extras, we just prefer to. Vegetable or meat (no spiceys obviously) table scraps are fine and economical. One of the most common causes of diarrhoea is over-feeding, so if your dog has unexplained diarrhoea, dont just think it could be something theyve picked up. If in doubt call us. Remember to increase the volume of each meal when you start to cut down meal frequencies. Add warm water to the food to increase the flavour and make it more palatable, and if puppy bolts his food, add extra water they cant eat it so fast. Dont let your puppy or dog eat from the floor. He must have a raised feeding bowl stand, otherwise he may get neck, back or tortion (twisted gut) problems. Soak each meal after the one theyve just had. If feeding an adult we continue to soak. You only need a small amount of water to make it swell food floating in the water will result in stodgy meals. If you have problems with puppy turning away from food, dont automatically assume they dont like that food, you will make a rod for your own back by chopping and changing, and you will end up with an ultra fussy dog. Dont pander to the dog if it turns away from its food. If pup snubs food and you add something juicy after refusal, they will take advantage of you forever! Do not leave it down, and above all do not resort to hand-feeding or coaxing. Pick it up the moment he turns away. I cant cover everything in this section, but please call me if you have a feeding problem like this. Raw bones are an excellent source of all the natural minerals and vitamins your dog needs and ten times better for the dog than the bones from pet shops covered and stuffed in preservatives. From 5 months on, you may occasionally find your young dog becomes intermittently lame perhaps shifting lameness from one leg to another. This is usually Panosteitis (growing pains) and is a temporary condition caused by inflammation in the fast growing long bones (shin and thigh). If this does happen, call us for food advice as you should reduce the protein intake to slow the growth down. There is no cure except rest and a low protein intake, but puppy will grow out of it. Rubbing their legs is often comforting for them and keep them warm and dry. In serious cases, your vet may prescribe Metacam which is an anti inflammatory drug if unavailable use Nurofen/Aspirin (not appropriate for VWd affected dogs if you have untested dogs at home). This will alleviate the worst symptoms, but Pano will pass when the growing is finished. If you can slow growth down and restrict exercise it will help. Vets sometimes diagnose Pano as something sinister and worry the new owner. Follow protein reduction advice and reduce exercise for a while. Call if youre worried at all. WORMING Puppy has been wormed regularly at fortnightly intervals from the age of 2 weeks. After 8 weeks, puppies should be wormed once a month up to the age of 6 months. Thereafter, worm twice a year. We have included a pack of information from Vetmedic. This company can supply you with good quality veterinary products such as wormers usually cheaper than the vets. Avoid the worming products in pet shops; they are poor quality. Puppy was last wormed on X with Drontal. Panacur is not suitable for small puppies as it is too harsh on their stomachs. SUPPLEMENTS Supplements are not really necessary for puppies if you are feeding a good complete food. A good quality food such as Nutro has sufficient vitamins and minerals for all ages and exercise types. However, if you notice flat feet and flying ears by the time they are 5 months onwards, you can give a Canovel tablet daily, which contains Calcium and Phosphorous in the right ratios. Teething is not over when the teeth change deeper changes continue under the jaw-bone, so take care not to exercise too hard until around 18 months. VACCINATIONS The puppies were vaccinated on X, aged 6.5 weeks and will need their second vaccination on X May aged 10 weeks. The vaccination was the Schering Plough Procyon product. The issue of yearly vaccinations is difficult. This vaccine is triannual. You need to vaccinate annually against Lepto. If you do leave it a long time, you do not (despite many vets advice) have to return for the full course, you just need a booster or even better immuno test. Homeopathy has not yet unfortunately been proven to be effective against the main diseases DHPPI, L Distemper, Hepatitis, Parvovirus, Parainfluenza, Leptospirosis. The vaccine product we use, vaccinates against Parvo Type ll and Coronavirus. Talk to your vet and if he is only interested in vaccinating every year, consider changing. Read What vets dont tell you about vaccines by Catherine ODriscoll. She is pretty much ridiculed by the veterinary profession, but the book is worth a read. Just go into it with an open mind as you could be convinced never to vaccinate again. We personally feel vaccines have a valuable place in the protection of our dogs, but we try not to over vaccinate hence why we now use immunity testing rather than blanket vaccinating and have been happy with the results. Our advice would be not to do nothing, but to think reasonably what you are comfortable with rather than just letting the vet vaccinate routinely without consideration. GENERAL MEDICAL VetMedic 0800-387348 supply veterinary pharmacy products by mail order which are exactly the same make and quality in the vets, such as wormers, flea treatments etc. Because they cut out the vet or pet shop, their prices are competitive and their staff can offer quite good advice. I have enclosed their leaflet for your information. You cannot buy prescription medicine from them without a prescription from your vet, but your vet is now legally obliged to provide you with a script if his prices are too high. Here are some remedies you may find useful. TEETH You can buy proprietary toothpaste for dogs, and brush your dogs teeth daily, but theres always some poor mug waiting to be sold something to! Just feed raw juicy bones and youll never have to brush the dogs teeth, as dogs maintain their own teeth far more naturally and effectively than we can. NAILS Dobermanns should have tight cat like feet, and the nails should not touch the floor. No amount of roadwork will keep them short enough; they need clipping regularly. If their nails grow too long, the foot will be pushed back onto the heel and can in very severe cases cause joint problems. Vets and grooming parlours never clip the nails back as far as they should (as before, they are not breed experts), and therefore you should learn how to do this yourself. I will have shown you how to clip the nails hopefully without drawing blood! The quick of the nail can bleed a lot if you clip it, and with black claws it can be tricky to avoid this. Invest in a good pair of clippers, not the guillotine ones as they are not accurate enough and compress the quick before cutting which is very uncomfortable. Clip small slices on an angle, not straight across. Get into the habit of clipping the nails each week, dont leave it any longer as they grow fast. CHIN SPOTS Dobermanns are prone to chin spots. Most vets prescribe antibiotics - an expensive, temporary and unnecessary fix (unless infected) and vets should know better. The best remedy is Antipeol an old remedy for babys nappy rash (you probably need to order it, but its worth it) or Sudacrem available from Boots vets dont make money out of a 2.00 tube! Apply daily and you should see an improvement in a few days. To prevent chin spots forming, clean after food with a soft, warm damp towel and always keep chin clean. Pull out the affected compacted hairs and squeeze out the rest watch your eyes, they can burst, but if you pull with tweezers it wont be so bad. Chin spots are very sore for dogs, so be gentle when cleaning and wiping. SPOTTY BACK (WITHERS/ SHOULDERS) As above the great cure all from vets antibiotics, will get rid of them, but 9:10, it is dietary related, and is usually found when too many toxins are given to the animal. Toxins as in food colourants, synthetic antioxidants preservatives, E- numbers and other chemicals. The food we recommend contains none of the above, so you should easily maintain a good coat. Alternatively, problems can occur from environmental issues dont use Febreze or harsh chemical cleaners. SCARS Vaseline or Vitamin E Oil. Massage firmly and keep re-applying say twice daily so as not to let the skin dry out, otherwise hair cant grow through the toughened skin and the scar will be permanent. ANAL GLANDS Please do NOT allow your vet to express the puppys anal glands unless they are impacted. Puppies especially go through phases of anal glands being over full, but if your vet is too keen to express them, they will never self regulate and will always be a problem ending up in an operation to remove the anal glands. Funny how vets never talk about dietary changes to fix the problem! Give your dog a bone and more of a fibre rich diet, but often they clear themselves after a while. Call if you need help. ROUTINE Those of you who will be leaving puppies whilst you are at work for a morning or an afternoon, should gradually leave your puppy on his or her own during his settling in period. Try not to let the puppy follow you everywhere like a shadow. This is where a crate comes in useful. If you allow the puppy to go everywhere with you, he will become very upset and distressed when you have to go out and leave him alone, and separation anxiety is upsetting for everyone ~ not least when you have your home ruined. Dont take 2 weeks off work to settle puppy in and then return to work all morning or afternoon. Better to leave puppy gradually for 1 hour a day, then the next day 1 hours etc, until you are out for 3 hours which is the maximum time a puppy should be left alone anyway due to his feeding requirements. Puppies are more active during the afternoon than the morning. After their morning meal, they will play for a shorter time than the afternoon, so if you have a choice of when during the day to leave them, make it the morning. If you expect your dog to fit in around your familys life like a piece of furniture, expect problems. Make time for training each day just modules of training time 5 minutes twice a day. Make everything in the home an opportunity to train your new puppy. Youve chosen an intelligent breed, use it. Set aside time to leave puppy alone with a new and interesting toy or chew. Leave him without any fuss and put down a fresh bone which is ideal as they are concentrating on that so much they wont notice youve gone! Return promptly before he notices it as an issue. If separation starts becoming a problem, please call us. We have a separate fact sheets on this and problems from nipping to house-training if you need them. SECURITY Dobermanns are very valuable animals, and although they are a guarding breed, they may be friendly to some strangers especially as puppies. There is a huge spate of thefts of puppies and adult dogs both from their homes and out walking. Obviously dont leave them unsupervised in an unsecured garden; one trick by thieves, is to ring your doorbell whilst the other thief nips around the back and steal your puppy from the back of the house. There is a huge amount of dog theft at the moment so security should be a major issue, even to ensuring that unknown locals dont know you have a pup until it is old enough to bark and warn you that someone may be around the back garden. Recall is the most important exercise some thieves target local parks and encourage dogs to them. Puppy is tattooed. I will return the paperwork to the National Dog Tattoo Register to change the owner details when the forms are completed. If your dog strays, the receiving centre will check the number and contact the Register, who in turn will contact you to let them know they have your dog. If they cant contact you, they will default to us. We do suggest you also have your Dobermann Microchipped. If you are intending to travel overseas at any time under the Pet Passport scheme it is the only accepted method of identification. Chips can move around the body, and although some of ours have shifted they are still around the same place after 7 years. Not all rescue centres have scanners, so tattoos are useful, but similarly not all centres check tattoos, so we use both. In addition, dont forget a collar tag, with I am tattooed or I am Identichipped. The Register will send you a tag. It is illegal to have a dog in a public place (even if on lead) without a tag. HEALTH TESTING We are working towards being able to guarantee that to the best of our knowledge, the dogs we breed are free from inherited diseases. In reality, this is much more complicated and longer process than it sounds. Heres one example. Two parents tested clear for PHPV (Persistent Hyperplastic Primary Vitreous) an eye disease that can affect Dobermanns) can still produce puppies affected by PHPV. The disease can cause blindness but only in its most severe state. It is impossible to say how many UK Dobermanns are affected/carriers, because only a fraction of the population has been tested. Last time tables were published, of the small proportion of Dobermanns tested for PHPV, only 0.2% were affected, however, we cant eradicate the problem unless we all continue to test. Testing for PHPV and other eye diseases involves a visit to a specialist where the dog will be examined. The dog has eye drops (to dilate the pupils ~ totally pain free) and after a short while the specialist can examine the eye in detail. The results will then be published under the KC/BVA scheme. Both parents are PHPV clear. Check on the BVA site for a specialist near you. Dobermanns can suffer from called Von Willebrands Disease VWd, similar to Haemophilia where the blood fails to clot. There are 3 status Clear, Carrier and Affected. Affected dogs will not always bleed it depends on the level of Von Willebrands factor in the blood. This litter are all clear by parentage, meaning none of them will bleed. One of the biggest problems in the breed is Dilated Cardiomyopathy DCM. Eventually all dogs will die of heart failure (if nothing else beforehand), but DCM is a specific disease causing a weakness of the left ventricle wall. The KC and Dobermann Breed Council have recently introduced a national heart testing scheme in conjunction with Boehringer Ingelheim for Dobermanns in this country. All Dobermanns over 5 years of age (with a registered pedigree for registration purposes), are eligible for free testing at regional cardiology centres. We annually test all our dogs ~ whether breeding or not ~ and all, are AT THE TIME OF TESTING, clear of the disease. However, DCM is a progressive disease and dogs should be checked by a cardio specialist annually/16 months. Cervical Spondylopathy ~ Wobblers is a hereditary disease of instability of the neck vertebrae where the vertebrae are mis-aligned and the spinal cord is compressed at some points. The testing involves X-Ray testing and can be done at the same time as the hips. Wobblers can remain dormant for many years, but can be brought on by over hard use of a collar/lead. Eg if the handler is heavy handed and pulls the dog off his feet harshly, the neck will suffer particularly in young dogs. Hips ~ Dobermanns rank around 16th of all breeds affected. It takes around 6 generations to ensure hip problems (or higher hip scores) are eradicated in a particular line. Unfortunately without a definitive mode of inheritance or identified gene, any dog could carry the gene and not himself suffer from HD. Hypothyroidism, is a common but rarely tested for disorder in Dobermanns. Most cases of hypothyroidism stem from the dogs own immune system attacking the tissues of the thyroid gland. This condition is called autoimmune thyroiditis. The dogs thyroid system attempts to compensate for this at first by secreting more and more of the thyroid hormone, but eventually the gland is unable to keep up with the attacks on it and the dog becomes hypothyroid and symptomatic. Thyroid hormones affect almost every organ in the body and the many signs of this disease are common. These include lethargy, depression, obesity despite normal feeding amounts, hair loss/weakening, skin and ear infections, weak or torn knee ligaments. To check for the inheritance of the disease, dogs should have the TgAA auto-immune antibody test undertaken. It can never therefore be possible to guarantee totally healthy dogs. However, we do guarantee that we do our best to test whilst taking into account the requirement to maintain a healthy gene pool by not eliminating good dogs from our breeding programme if their health tests arent perfect, however, we wont compromise on DCM or VWd affected dogs. All our KC registrations are restricted for progeny registration until the owners have obtained the appropriate health testing eg hips, eyes, VWd and heart. ie, if you do not health test, we will not lift the restriction so you cannot breed and register puppies from your dog or bitch with the KC. Please discuss with us the options on health testing as we have access to the latest breed information. SUMMARY We are sure you will have a wonderful time with your new puppy. You couldnt have chosen a more faithful breed. You will have trying times when your best shoes are eaten and you are deprived of rest when you have a demanding pup bringing his toy to you for play for the umpteenth time, but there will also be great of times when you laugh endlessly with your new companion and you will be rewarded with immense trust and undying devotion. It is never too much trouble for us to spend whatever time you need on questions/advice about your dog at whatever stage of their lives. A five minute telephone call could save you endless hassle or even a heavy financial vet bill. We are just a phone call or an e-mail away. Any pictures or even video clips will always be very gratefully received. We wouldnt have let you have one of our puppies if we didnt believe that you would cherish them. Whatever age they are, please remember us! We still care for them and very much appreciate you keeping in touch. Jay & Martin Aritaur Dobermanns  LETTER TO YOUR VETERINARIAN 20th October 2006 Dear Veterinary Surgeon, RE: DOBERMANN PUPPY HEALTH INFORMATION This puppy has been bred by us, raised in our home and has received top quality care and attention. This puppy is to the best of our knowledge, fit, healthy and free of any communicable diseases we are aware of. All our dogs (whether still breeding or not) are DCM tested annually to 18 months at Liverpool University. We are not aware of problems in the bloodlines we use with OCD, HD, Cervical Spondylopathy, PHPV, DCM, Thyroid, skin complaints or any other problems affecting this breed and take the health testing of our breed seriously. The Sire is Von Willebrands Clear (DNA Finnzymes/KC scheme), Hip scored 3:6, PHPV/PHTVL Clear, DCM Clear Feb 05, Thyroid normal, TgAA Clear. The dam is Von Willebrands Clear (DNA/Finnzymes/KC scheme), Hip scored 5:7 PHPV/PHTVL Clear, DCM Clear Feb 05, Thyroid normal, TgAA Clear. At the time of sale the puppy is free from physical deformities, of fleas, mites or any other parasitic infection that we are aware of. The litter was veterinary health checked on 20th September 2006. The new owner has been provided with complete food programme and exercise recommendations for this puppy. We raise and maintain our litters on Nutro and unless there is a specific medical problem of which we are unaware, we would ask that you do not advise the new owner to change brands. The puppy has been wormed fortnightly from 2 weeks of age with Drontal suspension, has no obvious worm burden and the new owner understands the worming requirement from 8 weeks and beyond. We do not support Drontals worming regime of every 3 months which in our opinion destroys healthy gut flora and is only appropriate for heavy scavengers. This puppy was vaccinated for DA2PPi/CvL on x aged 7 weeks with Schering Plough Procyon product and is due for re-vaccination on/near the 11th November aged 10 weeks. This regime follows data sheet advice on this vaccination regime protecting our puppies against Parvo Type 11 and Coronavirus. We respectfully request that you do not suggest re-vaccination and/or a 12 week finish as we are content with the data sheet recommendations of this vaccine and wish our puppies to have the benefits of socialisation well before 13 weeks. This vaccine is 3 year licensed, however, the new owner has been advised to vaccinate against Lepto annually and/or to immunity test. We would appreciate if you would respect our views as breeders and trainers, and do not suggest castration or spaying prior to at least 7 months of age. There are adverse affects of spaying and castration and it is only fair that the new owner is able to fully evaluate the value to them and the dog of this decision without being under pressure from any politically correct modern viewpoint. Puppy is tattooed, but we would appreciate you microchipping this puppy for additional security. Yours sincerely Jay Kershaw & Martin Horgan RECOMMENDED READING Dog Training for Dummies ~ By Jack & Wendy Volhard - don't be misled by the title, or think you are 'above' a book 'for dummies'! It makes perfect sense of why and how good training methods work. Explaining drives and how to identify your dogs' requirements and how to use drives to motivate and train your dog. Not all dogs think the same, so why train them all in the same way? This book will change your view of training dogs and dog behaviour for ever. The World of Dobermanns - available from -  HYPERLINK "http://www.bbpress.nl" \t "_blank" www.bbpress.nl - a worldwide guide to the Dobermann today with plenty of top quality images and text from correspondents around the world. Occasionally copies may be available from Jay Kershaw - UK correspondent - 01538 703072 HYPERLINK "mailto:jayk@aritaur.co.uk"  jayk@aritaur.co.uk. Animals In Translation - Temple Grandin ~ simply the most outstanding book on animal behaviour written by an autistic woman who is employed by the US government to monitor animal welfare standards in farming. The first episode of the new Horizon 2006 series featured Temple Grandin's work. The Holistic Guide for a Healthy Dog ~ some bits might be a bit 'kooky' for 'grounded' readers - ie the parts on kinesiology, but this book details how to read commercial dog food labels, preparing the 'natural diet', supplements and what they're about, vaccinations and lab tests. By Wendy Volhard & Kerry Brown DVM Published by Howell. IRO 14.99 Dog Tricks for Dummies ~ a bit film work oriented, but full of different ideas on how to motivate and keep your dog's mind interested - invaluable for the absorbent mind of a Dobermann puppy. Nothing like mental stimulation for tiring them out. Dog Logic by Joel McMains - the world has moved on considerably from the days of the 60's where conventional dog training methods were brutal to say the least. McMains discusses the dog-owner relationship at great length and makes clear distinctions between fair and unfair discipline, between instructive corrections and abusive displays of power which undermine one's relationship with their dog. In fairness, he repeatedly asserts that dogs should not be corrected if they are willing but confused and that correction should be just enough to get one's point across and no more. If you want to get deeper in the canine mind and learn how dogs think, buy this book and the one below. The Dogs Mind - Bruce Fogle DVM, MRCVS - Mandatory reading for anyone who keeps a dog or has intentions of so doing. Details the emotional makeup of dogs; why they suffer from stress and how it can be overcome.       PAGE  PAGE 12 Telephone 01538 703072 e-mail  HYPERLINK "mailto:jayk@aritaur.co.uk" jayk@aritaur.co.uk The Headmasters House, Cotton College, Cotton, Nr Oakamoor, Staffs, ST10 3DP www.aritaur.co.uk  Int, Multi, Russ Ch Tamerlan iz Slavnoi Stai Crislea Centrefold of Aritaur   Dutch Ch, Europa Jugend Siegerin, Bel W, Lux W Aritaur Dominatrix   Ch Ramonburgs Valdo Your new puppy has been reared in our home with love, devotion and the very best care. Their breeding was very carefully selected, using in our opinion, the best available Sire in Europe for the Dam.  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